If you're ever down Bordeaux way, do seek out Le Chai au Quai, right on the Dordogne River in old Castillon. It's quite a sight. And inside it harbours some of the most innovative, thrilling little vats of wine in France. Dozens of them. This exemplary Pauillac was secured by our head winemaker Jean-Marc Sauboua from a cellar with vineyards all over the appellation. Some are tucked away in corners close to the Grand Cru Classé names, others further afield, then aged in our finest small oak barriques and given full TLC. Surprisingly smooth for a young Pauillac (that's the beauty of the 2007 vintage) yet with classic cigar-box, clove and cassis character, this wine couldn't be anything else. Decant and serve with rare roast lamb or beef.